Life in Japan

Why Japan may be the safest place in the world to lose your wallet There aren't many restaurants with outdoor seating in Japan, particularly traditional Japanese ones. That may be because al fresco dining simply isn't part of Japanese culture – or because summers are far too hot to sit outside. There is, however, a yakitori restaurant just a couple of hundred metres from our local station with a single terrace table, which is one of our favourite spots. One table. That's all

A story about wine, customer service, and why Japan does things differently The other day, I ordered eight bottles of rosé wine from a large online retailer whose name I shall not mention. Not because I fear legal consequences. Mainly because they have just given me twelve bottles of wine for free, and I don't want them changing their minds. For reasons that remain unexplained, our household wine reserves had fallen to alarmingly low levels. The order was placed on Saturday,

Where rainy-season storms meet trembling ground The other day, I was reminded that living in Japan means accepting that nature occasionally likes to keep things... interesting. Take last month. We were in the middle of the rainy season – that damp stretch from early June to mid-July that every resident complains about while quietly acknowledging that, without it, the country would have a slight agricultural problem. After all, it provides around 20–30% of Japan's annual rainf

Driving on Japan’s expressways can be challenging at times. There is speeding. There is frequent undertaking. Many drivers appear to believe the fast lane is a perfectly acceptable place to live permanently. And tailgating is apparently a favourite pastime. I experienced the consequences of that last year, when the driver behind me failed to stop in backed-up traffic and crashed into my then three-week-old car. Two months of chiropractic treatment and three months of negotiat

A Swiss expat hunting for familiar flavours, traditions, and identity in Japan After our monthly team meeting at work, we usually order lunch. Sometimes bento boxes. Sometimes curry. The other day, somebody suggested biryani. Then one colleague suddenly asked: ‘Are there any Swiss restaurants that do food deliveries in Tokyo?’ The question caught me completely off guard. Because despite having lived here for many years, I genuinely didn’t know. Someone else then pointed out:

Everyday routines revealing Japan’s culture, quirks, and how it's changing Japan is changing. Not everywhere. Not all at once. But occasionally, small experiences make you stop and wonder whether something is quietly shifting beneath the surface. At the same time, some things stubbornly hold onto the past. Some desired change doesn't happen. And sometimes you get it without asking for it. The other day, I visited our usual dry cleaner. It requires a ten-minute drive, but for

Tokyo encounters and expat reflections May is my favourite month in Japan. No heating. No air conditioning. The bedroom window stays open all night, and the cool air drifting in before dawn keeps the room at exactly the right temperature. The sun rises before five, the birds begin their morning conference outside the window, and getting out of bed suddenly feels far less offensive than it did in January. By six o’clock, the temperature is already pleasant. Around twenty degre

Space, culture, and daily life in Japanese homes The other morning, my wife and I had breakfast on our balcony. One of our two balconies, I should say. The one off the living room (on the middle floor) is wider but shallow, so it functions as our miniature garden – ivy, herbs, the illusion of rural life. The one on the top floor, off the bedroom, is narrower but deep enough for a table. Not massive, but sufficient. One learns to compromise. So, breakfast on the balcony. Nothi

Japan’s sleep culture and public transport habits The other day, on the train home from a weekend outing – fortified by a lunchtime beer – we managed to secure seats. It took me approximately three minutes to nod off. Fortunately, my wife was sitting next to me to inform me – at the appropriate moment – that our stop had arrived and it was time to get off. The incident reminded me of one of Japan’s most refined life skills. A skill that does not appear to exist anywhere in th

Seasonal shifts and cultural rhythms in Japan As the days begin to warm, there comes that hopeful moment each year when we realise we can finally turn off the heating and open the windows. Fresh air enters the living room. Spring announces itself. Life feels lighter. In a densely built neighbourhood, however, fresh air rarely travels alone. It arrives accompanied by sound. Last year we discovered one particularly dedicated contributor to the urban soundtrack: a neighbour acro

Wildlife, culture, and unexpected comparisons The other day, my wife suddenly looked up from her morning coffee and asked a perfectly reasonable question: 'Where have all the crows gone?' This may not sound like a big deal. But if you’ve ever lived in Tokyo, you’ll understand the gravity of the situation. For years, our mornings weren’t greeted by the delicate chirping of sparrows, but by the full-volume cawing of crows that sounded like they were holding an emergency meeting

Pandemic habits and cultural differences in Japan It’s flu season. And Covid is also still doing the rounds. At this point, I’m beginning to suspect we’re not getting rid of it anytime soon. Walking around Japan at this time of year, it can sometimes feel as if the pandemic never really left. Masks everywhere. On trains. In shops. On the street. Sometimes even outdoors – alone, in wide‑open spaces. Or worn by drivers sitting solo in their car, presumably protecting themselves

Swiss winter nostalgia meets Japanese life I’m writing this from Nagano – roughly 230 km away from Tokyo – where we are spending our Christmas and New Year's Holidays. When people hear Nagano, their brains immediately start projecting skiing montages: powder snow, mountain peaks, and some heroic skier flying through the air in glorious slow motion. Understandable, since Nagano Prefecture is often referred to as the "Roof of Japan", surrounded by enough mountains to make a Swi

Digital life, bureaucracy, and living abroad Last week, my wife and I went to see Back to the Future in concert – 40 years after its premiere. Forty years! Sometimes I do feel old. As the orchestra launched into that epic opening theme and the DeLorean thundered to life, I felt chills – partly from nostalgia, partly from the dawning realisation that humanity has somehow managed to invent AI that writes poetry, but not a single functioning time machine. And frankly, some days,

Getting lost in Japan’s tech wonderlands Let’s set the scene. It’s the third day of a long weekend – that blissful stage where you’ve lost all sense of time and start to believe you might never have to work again. My wife and I had just purchased a shiny new washing machine at our local tech wonderland, also known as the electronics store – where reason goes in with you, but somehow never makes it back out. All that was left was to pay. Simple, right? A quick beep of the cred

Japan’s home gadgets and cultural obsessions One of the things I’ve always loved about Japan – apart from the polite people, super-efficient trains, and vending machines that sell everything short of life insurance – are the gigantic electronics stores. These are not just shops. They are cathedrals of consumer technology, temples where you can lose yourself for hours among the latest gadgets, futuristic household appliances, and mysterious contraptions you didn’t even know ex

Blending in, standing out, and expat identity Living in Japan as a Western foreigner can be rather interesting. People spot you, freeze, and then quietly decide not to engage unless absolutely necessary. It's entertaining, frustrating, and occasionally useful, depending on how much social interaction you're trying to avoid that day. No matter how long I've lived here, my face will always be a dead giveaway that I'm not from around here. And with that comes a whole bouquet of

Japan’s tech quirks and nostalgic surprises Last week I made the bold decision that our loyal, 8-year-old car had earned its pension. Time for a shiny new replacement, I thought. A monumental decision, to be sure... at least for me. My dearest wife was considerably less enthused. While she made a contribution to the choice of colour, the rest was left to me as the sole driver: the heroic expedition to the Mazda dealership, the epic quest for the perfect chariot, and the gladi

Heatwaves, weather extremes, and cultural reactions It’s official: The Japan Meteorological Agency has confirmed that Japan just survived (barely) its hottest summer on record. The national average temperature from June to August came in at a sweaty 2.36°C above the norm. That may not sound like much, but trust me, in meteorology it's colossal. And this wasn’t a one-off. This comes hot (pun 100% intended) on the heels of the previous hottest summers of 2024 and 2023. Japan is

Humidity, weather, and cultural reactions in Japan Earlier this week, the Japanese Meteorological Agency cautiously announced that the Tokyo region had "likely entered the rainy season." "Likely?" I thought. Looking at the monsoon-level deluge outside, I was pretty certain that we had DEFINITELY entered the rainy season. But I suppose meteorologists aren't in the business of guarantees. They wouldn’t want to be flooded (pun intended) with complaints like, "Excuse me, where ar

Japan’s readiness culture through Swiss humour Last week, my wife and I went to the opera – expecting culture, drama, and, inevitably, an overpriced glass of champagne (but that's part of the experience). What we didn't expect was a full-scale disaster preparedness briefing before the curtain even rose. The announcement, delivered in both Japanese and English, wasn’t just about turning off your phone or refraining from illegal filming. No, this was a detailed monologue on ear

Japan’s waste rules and cultural discipline Japanese sports fans have earned global admiration for their magical ability to clean up after themselves before leaving stadiums. They don’t just toss their trash - they meticulously gather it, sort it, and leave the place better than when they arrived. It’s basically a post-game cleaning ritual, like a victory dance, but with garbage bags. This comes as no surprise to anyone familiar with Japan’s school system, where children are

Tokyo’s dog culture and its charming extremes Japan is shrinking. Well, not geographically, but demographically. It turns out, people just aren't making enough more people. Over the past thirty years, Japan's birthrate has dropped from 1.50 to 1.26. In the same time period, the percentage of over 65s has risen from 12% to 29%, now making up almost one third of the entire population. Japan may have one of the longest life expectancies, but the nation's population has been in d

Cultural surprises and everyday oddities in Japan Japan has been surfing a tidal wave of popularity lately - both as a holiday hotspot and a full-time home. As a result, my neighbourhood has turned into a veritable United Nations parade every time I step out for a jog or walk. Given that by the end of 2024, a record-breaking 3.8 million foreigners called this home, it's hardly surprising that running into fellow members of the "foreign species" has become quite routine. That

Tokyo’s seasonal style and cultural expression Only days after a surprise snowfall in Tokyo, spring has suddenly sprung, with temperatures in the mid 20s (Celsius, not Fahrenheit!). One moment you’re dusting off your snow boots, and the next, it feels like British midsummer in March. Naturally, this means it’s time for me to shed the layers and don T-shirt and shorts for my daytime outings (though obviously not for work - that would be pushing it too far). But the best pa

Japan’s tech contradictions through Swiss eyes In the grandiose age of a cashless world, where debit cards, electronic payment Apps and QR codes reign supreme, you’d think that paying a bill would be as smooth as a freshly minted coin gliding over silk. There are so many options out there to part with your hard-earned money electronically: Some are universal, such as Apple Pay, Google Pay or PayPal. Others are localised solutions, such as the hugely popular Twint in Switzer

Mispronunciations, identity, and communication abroad My bank has been on a crusade, encouraging everyone to upgrade to their new bank card with the latest security features. Apparently, even in a country as safe as Japan, there are always crafty fraudsters lurking in the shadows. The new card is a marvel of modern technology, combining the functions of a cash card, credit card, and debit card all in one. The catch? Switching to this new super-card is more of a quest than a q

Japanese customer service at its most astonishing I've had to pay a few visits to my Mazda dealer lately (the latest one to get my Sat Nav updated, so as not to get lost on Tokyo's streets). Every visit reminds me of the high-quality customer service we enjoy here in Japan, although it can come with its quirks! From the moment I pull up, the adventure begins. As I back into a parking space (because nobody parks forward in Japan), a representative comes sprinting out like an O

Japan’s stranger rules through Swiss humour Japan never ceases to amaze... The other day, it was time for the periodic vehicle inspection (called 'shaken') of our car, which is mandatory every two years. Once done, they slap a sticker on the windscreen to certify the car has passed the inspection and is roadworthy. So far, so good. A few days later, the dealership rang to say the certificate was ready, and I should drop by to get the sticker affixed. So, I went there. But whe

Japan’s unpredictable seasons and cultural reactions It's winter, and the question I hear more than anything else is: "Aren't you cold?" You see, Tokyo winters are like a lukewarm cup of tea compared to Switzerland's icy blast. Temperatures rarely drop below freezing, and snow is a rare guest. Though when it does snow, Tokyo turns into a scene from a disaster movie. Road traffic grinds to a halt, and pedestrians shuffle along the pavement as if they’re auditioning for a role

How Japan’s quirks become everyday life abroad How Japan has changed! Back when I first landed in Japan 28 years ago, I felt like a rare Pokémon in a sea of Pikachus — an oddity, a curiosity! People would look at me with a mix of fascination and fear, like I was about to unleash a fire-breathing dragon. They hesitated to speak Japanese, probably thinking, “This poor soul wouldn’t understand a word!” And at least in my first couple of years here, they would have been right. Wh

When Japanese efficiency surprises even a Swiss expat Japanese efficiency is practically an art form! Imagine a world where everything runs like clockwork, with the precision of a synchronised swimming team. From the seamless precision of trains to the meticulous attention to detail in production lines, it's all about minimising waste and maximising productivity. After all, this is the birthplace of "kaizen". Sushi chefs turn fish into masterpieces in no time, and even the si

Japan’s vibrant contrasts from city lights to tradition Living in or near Tokyo for over 20 years, you tend to get used to the neon lights, towering skyscrapers, and the breakneck speed of urban life. It's all too easy to assume this is the norm and that Tokyo is just another big city like any other. But every now and then, something happens that seemingly catapults you back in time, reminding you of the unique traditions that make Japan special. Take last week, for instance.

Shoes, slippers, and comfort rules across cultures As a long and hot summer has finally come to an end and the air is - slowly - getting cooler, our air conditioners finally get to chill (pun absolutely intended). And although it's still much warmer here than in my home country at this time of year, the dreaded heating season is almost upon us. As a Swiss expat, your instincts kick in: Time to fire up the central heating! Simple, right? Just ensure your gigantic oil tank

Japanese retail culture meets Swiss practicality Ah, the delight of retail therapy, enjoyed by many the world over! So, let’s explore the contrasting shopping aisles of Japan and Switzerland, shall we? I have always found the shopping experience in Japan a very special one, and very different from what you get in Switzerland, where it tends to be a no-frills experience, whereas in Japan it’s taken to an entirely different level. One reason is the incredible attention to d

Japan’s paradoxes through the eyes of a Swiss expat This month marks 28 years since I crash-landed in Japan with my shiny new Japanese wife, ready to start a new life. I had no clue what to expect from a country on the opposite side of the globe, where my only experience was a few weeks of holidaying. All I really knew was that it was a powerhouse in the manufacture of cars and electronic gadgets, and the origin of my favourite childhood cartoon, “Heidi, Girl of the Alps”.

Time, efficiency, and cultural contradictions in Japan The first time I came across a sign indicating that a shop was open until 25:00 or 25:30, I thought, “Wait, did Japan invent its own time system? Last I checked, an earthly day had only 24 hours. But they, maybe Japan is just that special!” At first, the idea of an extra hour didn’t seem so bad. More time to hang out with friends or catch up on sleep, right? It’s like the day of turning back the clock one hour in Europe

Earthquakes, preparedness, and life in Japan People from abroad, well aware of Japan’s reputation for being a seismic hotspot, often ask me if I’m not afraid of earthquakes. The reality? If you choose to live here, it just comes with the territory (pun absolutely intended). Honestly, we don’t think about it much. Only when the earth decides to do a little dance - which, let’s be real, happens quite frequently. So if you put it that way, we probably do think about it quite

Cyclists, chaos, and cultural contrasts on Japanese roads The other day I had dinner with a Swiss friend, who was visiting Japan for the very first time. We settled down for a pre-dinner drink, and he started telling me about his day in Akihabara, Tokyo’s buzzing shopping hub packed with electronics stores, and a magnet for overseas visitors. The place is like Disneyland for tech geeks - you can find anything from a simple camera to a robot that will do your laundry, and ma

Health checks, ageing, and expat life in Japan Imagine yourself as both a human and a ship, navigating life’s unpredictable waters. One special day a year, you transform into a sleek, high-tech vessel - a floating marvel of health consciousness. Your mission? To reach the shores of optimal well-being and longevity. Japan boasts one of the world’s highest life expectancies, and it’s not just due to sushi and matcha tea (although those certainly help!). Disease prevention pla

Heat, humidity, and cultural resilience in Japan Stepping outside in Tokyo these days is like walking into a brick wall. The humid air clings to you like wrapping film around a sushi roll, and you wonder if Japan has secretly relocated to the equator overnight. However, Google Maps insists we’re still in the same spot. So, there can only be one explanation: Summer has arrived! 35 degrees Celsius for the last couple of days, and judging by the forecast, this is just the warm-u

A Swiss search for familiar flavours in Tokyo I have just returned from a 3-week long trip to Europe, to visit family and friends. Apart from the observation that everything is jaw-droppingly expensive over there now, 'curtesy of' an ultra-weak yen, I came across something that is incredibly popular in Europe, yet is seemingly unknown in Japan: Aperol Spritz. For anyone not familiar with the drink: The Aperol Spritz is an Italian wine-based cocktail, commonly served as an apé

Navigating Japan’s address system with Swiss logic It may come as a surprise to many outside of Japan that most streets here don't have a name. The notable exception are main streets, expressways and toll roads. But your ordinary residential street will always be nameless. Why is that? Japan uses a highly complex, area-based addressing system dating back to the Meiji era (1868 - 1912). Towns are typically subdivided into smaller areas with names, and then into smaller blocks

Outdoor eating, cultural quirks, and Swiss comparisons With days - and evenings - getting warmer, I feel myself drawn to restaurant terraces and street cafés - not that they can exactly be found in abundance in Japan, mind you! Since my other half is away for a few days and the weather is absolutely glorious at the moment, last night I decided to stroll to the nearby shopping area and have dinner at our favourite Italian-Spanish restaurant, the only one left within walking di

A Swiss expat battles Japan’s driving bureaucracy A few months ago I mentioned that my old Swiss Driving Licence was going to lose its validity this year, as Swiss authorities will now only accept the new licence in credit card format. I appreciate that Switzerland is moving with the times. The conundrum is that the new licence is only issued to folks residing in Switzerland, essentially leaving Swiss nationals living abroad out in the cold. So in order to continue to drive l

Safety, trust, and cultural contrasts in daily life Japanese banks and credit card companies take security very, very seriously. Which would seem to be a good thing, right? Except, they often take it to such extremes that it can be super frustrating for the user. The thing is that I travel and shop overseas quite frequently, and ever so often when using an overseas website, my card is blocked because the purchase is flagged as potentially fraudulent. When I say overseas websi

Weather, rituals, and seasonal extremes across Japan As I'm writing this, it's 3 degrees Celsius outside in the middle of the day, and the mercury is not expected to rise much further than that today... Hard to believe that barely 3 days ago I was having lunch on the terrace of a pizzeria in the centre of Tokyo, with a balmy 23 degrees, and with one specific type of cherry tree ('Kawazu Sakura' ) already in bloom nearby! This being February, I knew, of course, that the lovely

Chocolate, customs, and cultural surprises in Japan Valentine's Day: A day when couples demonstrate their love for each other by giving each other cards and presents across the globe. Well, with one exception: Japan! Because as Christmas Eve in Japan has taken the top spot in the calendar as the favourite day for lovers and couples (if you wonder why, take a look at one of my previous posts: Christmas in Japan - KFC and Christmas Cake), I guess they had to slightly re-purpose

When Japan pauses and the Swiss expat watches Monday saw a blizzard in Tokyo, which dumped 8 cm of snow in the capital. Although 'dumped' doesn't quite seem to hit the right note, as it would seem to be more adequate in connection with at least half a metre of snow... 8 cm doesn't sound like much, and it isn't - at least not to someone from an Alpine nation used to snow (heck, I even did my driving test on snow-covered roads). Yet, whenever there is more than a centimetre of

Discovering Japan’s bathing culture as a Swiss newcomer Growing up in Switzerland in the 70s, our house had two bathrooms, a bigger one with a bathtub, mainly reserved for our parents, and a slightly smaller one with a shower, predominantly used by my brother and me. I actually don't think that the shower was being used much in those days, at least as far as I remember, and certainly not by us kids. We would just wash our faces upon getting up in the morning, and then once a