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FOLDED SHIRTS, UNFOLDING JAPAN
Everyday routines revealing Japan’s culture, quirks, and how it's changing Japan is changing. Not everywhere. Not all at once. But occasionally, small experiences make you stop and wonder whether something is quietly shifting beneath the surface. At the same time, some things stubbornly hold onto the past. Some desired change doesn't happen. And sometimes you get it without asking for it. The other day, I visited our usual dry cleaner. It requires a ten-minute drive, but for
rowiko2
Jun 134 min read


THE MAN WITH THE HAT
Tokyo encounters and expat reflections May is my favourite month in Japan. No heating. No air conditioning. The bedroom window stays open all night, and the cool air drifting in before dawn keeps the room at exactly the right temperature. The sun rises before five, the birds begin their morning conference outside the window, and getting out of bed suddenly feels far less offensive than it did in January. By six o’clock, the temperature is already pleasant. Around twenty degre
rowiko2
May 233 min read


BALCONY LOGISTICS IN JAPAN
Space, culture, and daily life in Japanese homes The other morning, my wife and I had breakfast on our balcony. One of our two balconies, I should say. The one off the living room (on the middle floor) is wider but shallow, so it functions as our miniature garden – ivy, herbs, the illusion of rural life. The one on the top floor, off the bedroom, is narrower but deep enough for a table. Not massive, but sufficient. One learns to compromise. So, breakfast on the balcony. Nothi
rowiko2
Apr 183 min read


THE JAPANESE ART OF NAPPING
Japan’s sleep culture and public transport habits The other day, on the train home from a weekend outing – fortified by a lunchtime beer – we managed to secure seats. It took me approximately three minutes to nod off. Fortunately, my wife was sitting next to me to inform me – at the appropriate moment – that our stop had arrived and it was time to get off. The incident reminded me of one of Japan’s most refined life skills. A skill that does not appear to exist anywhere in th
rowiko2
Apr 43 min read


THE SOUND OF SPRING
Seasonal shifts and cultural rhythms in Japan As the days begin to warm, there comes that hopeful moment each year when we realise we can finally turn off the heating and open the windows. Fresh air enters the living room. Spring announces itself. Life feels lighter. In a densely built neighbourhood, however, fresh air rarely travels alone. It arrives accompanied by sound. Last year we discovered one particularly dedicated contributor to the urban soundtrack: a neighbour acro
rowiko2
Mar 14 min read


CAN'T STOP THIS THING CALLED NOSTALGIA
Memory, longing, and life between two countries The other day my wife and I went to see Bryan Adams in concert. This guy really rocks. And I don’t just mean in a 'good for his age' sense – which is usually polite shorthand for 'still upright and not entirely embarrassing'. No, he genuinely rocks. Especially when you consider that he’s 66. Sixty-six! An age where most people start complaining about their knees, their eyesight, and music all sounds the same these days. Meanwhil
rowiko2
Feb 73 min read


MASKED AND CONFUSED
Pandemic habits and cultural differences in Japan It’s flu season. And Covid is also still doing the rounds. At this point, I’m beginning to suspect we’re not getting rid of it anytime soon. Walking around Japan at this time of year, it can sometimes feel as if the pandemic never really left. Masks everywhere. On trains. In shops. On the street. Sometimes even outdoors – alone, in wide‑open spaces. Or worn by drivers sitting solo in their car, presumably protecting themselves
rowiko2
Jan 304 min read


BACK TO THE QR-TURE
Digital life, bureaucracy, and living abroad Last week, my wife and I went to see Back to the Future in concert – 40 years after its premiere. Forty years! Sometimes I do feel old. As the orchestra launched into that epic opening theme and the DeLorean thundered to life, I felt chills – partly from nostalgia, partly from the dawning realisation that humanity has somehow managed to invent AI that writes poetry, but not a single functioning time machine. And frankly, some days,
rowiko2
Nov 1, 20253 min read


CAUGHT IN THE ELECTRONICS STORE VORTEX
Getting lost in Japan’s tech wonderlands Let’s set the scene. It’s the third day of a long weekend – that blissful stage where you’ve lost all sense of time and start to believe you might never have to work again. My wife and I had just purchased a shiny new washing machine at our local tech wonderland, also known as the electronics store – where reason goes in with you, but somehow never makes it back out. All that was left was to pay. Simple, right? A quick beep of the cred
rowiko2
Oct 25, 20253 min read


LOST IN APPLIANCE PARADISE
Japan’s home gadgets and cultural obsessions One of the things I’ve always loved about Japan – apart from the polite people, super-efficient trains, and vending machines that sell everything short of life insurance – are the gigantic electronics stores. These are not just shops. They are cathedrals of consumer technology, temples where you can lose yourself for hours among the latest gadgets, futuristic household appliances, and mysterious contraptions you didn’t even know ex
rowiko2
Oct 19, 20253 min read


I'M NOT A TOURIST, I JUST LOOK LIKE ONE
Blending in, standing out, and expat identity Living in Japan as a Western foreigner can be rather interesting. People spot you, freeze, and then quietly decide not to engage unless absolutely necessary. It's entertaining, frustrating, and occasionally useful, depending on how much social interaction you're trying to avoid that day. No matter how long I've lived here, my face will always be a dead giveaway that I'm not from around here. And with that comes a whole bouquet of
rowiko2
Oct 4, 20253 min read


JAPANIVERSARY
Marking years abroad and life in Japan On 30 September, I will be celebrating my 29th Japaniversary – that's right, 29 years since I started a new life in the Land of the Rising Sun, with almost zero language skills and no job, but with a Japanese wife and a suitcase full of optimism. Now, I hadn't just stumbled into Japan like a confused tourist looking for Mt. Fuji. I had visited twice before. The first time was to spend a few weeks with my then-girlfriend, criss-crossing t
rowiko2
Sep 27, 20253 min read


FROM TOUCHSCREEN TO TIME MACHINE
Japan’s tech quirks and nostalgic surprises Last week I made the bold decision that our loyal, 8-year-old car had earned its pension. Time for a shiny new replacement, I thought. A monumental decision, to be sure... at least for me. My dearest wife was considerably less enthused. While she made a contribution to the choice of colour, the rest was left to me as the sole driver: the heroic expedition to the Mazda dealership, the epic quest for the perfect chariot, and the gladi
rowiko2
Sep 20, 20253 min read


JAPAN HAS JUST MELTED
Heatwaves, weather extremes, and cultural reactions It’s official: The Japan Meteorological Agency has confirmed that Japan just survived (barely) its hottest summer on record. The national average temperature from June to August came in at a sweaty 2.36°C above the norm. That may not sound like much, but trust me, in meteorology it's colossal. And this wasn’t a one-off. This comes hot (pun 100% intended) on the heels of the previous hottest summers of 2024 and 2023. Japan is
rowiko2
Sep 13, 20253 min read


FIFTY SHADES OF DAMP
Humidity, weather, and cultural reactions in Japan Earlier this week, the Japanese Meteorological Agency cautiously announced that the Tokyo region had "likely entered the rainy season." "Likely?" I thought. Looking at the monsoon-level deluge outside, I was pretty certain that we had DEFINITELY entered the rainy season. But I suppose meteorologists aren't in the business of guarantees. They wouldn’t want to be flooded (pun intended) with complaints like, "Excuse me, where ar
rowiko2
Jun 14, 20253 min read


PREPAREDNESS IN B MINOR
Japan’s readiness culture through Swiss humour Last week, my wife and I went to the opera – expecting culture, drama, and, inevitably, an overpriced glass of champagne (but that's part of the experience). What we didn't expect was a full-scale disaster preparedness briefing before the curtain even rose. The announcement, delivered in both Japanese and English, wasn’t just about turning off your phone or refraining from illegal filming. No, this was a detailed monologue on ear
rowiko2
Jun 7, 20253 min read


NO BINS, NO EXCUSES
Japan’s waste rules and cultural discipline Japanese sports fans have earned global admiration for their magical ability to clean up after themselves before leaving stadiums. They don’t just toss their trash - they meticulously gather it, sort it, and leave the place better than when they arrived. It’s basically a post-game cleaning ritual, like a victory dance, but with garbage bags. This comes as no surprise to anyone familiar with Japan’s school system, where children are
rowiko2
May 17, 20254 min read


POMERANIANS REIGNING SUPREME
Tokyo’s dog culture and its charming extremes Japan is shrinking. Well, not geographically, but demographically. It turns out, people just aren't making enough more people. Over the past thirty years, Japan's birthrate has dropped from 1.50 to 1.26. In the same time period, the percentage of over 65s has risen from 12% to 29%, now making up almost one third of the entire population. Japan may have one of the longest life expectancies, but the nation's population has been in d
rowiko2
May 10, 20254 min read


ALIENS, CHOPSTICKS, AND THE SIXTH SENSE
Cultural surprises and everyday oddities in Japan Japan has been surfing a tidal wave of popularity lately - both as a holiday hotspot and a full-time home. As a result, my neighbourhood has turned into a veritable United Nations parade every time I step out for a jog or walk. Given that by the end of 2024, a record-breaking 3.8 million foreigners called this home, it's hardly surprising that running into fellow members of the "foreign species" has become quite routine. That
rowiko2
Apr 20, 20253 min read


TOKYO'S SPRINGTIME FASHION SHOW
Tokyo’s seasonal style and cultural expression Only days after a surprise snowfall in Tokyo, spring has suddenly sprung, with temperatures in the mid 20s (Celsius, not Fahrenheit!). One moment you’re dusting off your snow boots, and the next, it feels like British midsummer in March. Naturally, this means it’s time for me to shed the layers and don T-shirt and shorts for my daytime outings (though obviously not for work - that would be pushing it too far). But the best pa
rowiko2
Mar 23, 20253 min read
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